This video shows slowly shaping the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it was left to dry for about 4 days in a muro. There is still a lot of work both to fill out the fill to the needed thickness and outer shape. I am using #800 sandpaper and then coming back in with an Olfa blade. I have some other, sturdier blades which I will use later on.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows building out the reconstruction on this figure. I am using sabi made with jinoko, not tonoko. Jinoko sabi is stronger overall for these types of fill, sometimes tonoko sabi will crack since it has more clay in it. It would be possible to use kokuso made with wood fibers but I don’t at this stage because although there are some deep fills most of this work is finer than kokuso allows. The body of the tsa tse figure is very low fired clay so it is important to not get sabi everywhere since it is next to impossible to get off it it hits the clay.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
These photos show the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it has been partially shaped. I still need to do fill work to bring the reconstruction out to the edges of the cardboard form.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
These photos show making a cardboard outline to shape a tsa-tsa figure. I did fill in to this figure several months ago and am now ready to sand back to the shape I want. The shape is sufficient to cut it back to the target shape but I will still need to do filling out to make it thick enough. There are also cracks to fill, it looks like this piece was broken into about 4 pieces and someone glued it back together. The photos show the final, cardboard outline. The black areas show where I need to shave back.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
These photos show the large, fishing-net globe after assembly. It isn’t possible to to take a video of the process since my workspace is limited in how far I can move the camera. I will let the piece dry for some weeks before going on. The mugiurushi I made with glass lacquer.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows applying gold to the large, main piece over glass lacquer to the break-face of a large, fishing-net globe. It isn’t possible to drop gold onto the surface since it is so narrow so I am dipping my brush into the gold. I will let the pieces dry for about a week and then do the same to the main, large part of the fishing-net globe.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows applying glass lacquer to the main part of a large, fishing-net globe. The reason for applying lacquer to the break-face is so I can then apply gold. When clear, non opaque glass is reassembled with mugiurushi you can, unlike ceramic, see the break-face. If you don’t apply gold to it you will see a black line.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows applying gold over glass lacquer to the break-face of a large, fishing-net globe. The edges of the glass are razor sharp which is why I am being so careful with handling it. It isn’t possible to drop gold onto the surface since it is so narrow. I will let the pieces dry for about a week and then do the same to the main, large part of the fishing-net globe.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows applying glass lacquer to the break-face of a large, fishing-net globe. The reason for applying lacquer to the break-face is so I can then apply gold. When clear, non opaque glass is reassembled with mugiurushi you can, unlike ceramic, see the break-face. If you don’t apply gold to it you will see a black line.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows step #5, polishing #4 silver. I started this yesterday and thought I had taken a video and only hit the camera button so I restarted it today which is why it looks partially done at the beginning. Unfortunately today while taking the video I broke through in 2 places down to red so I may take all the silver off and re-apply it. I am using a #1,000 stone to polish.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225