This video shows adding a thickened lacquer to a couple of small holes. The lacquer is thickened with jinoko without water. It is like what is sometimes used for making raised areas in makie. The piece is very close to being finished but there were still a couple of very small holes that needed filling.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows partial application of the second layer of a middle black over an application of sabi. Between the first and this application I sanded with a #2000 stone. Before this second application I put the tube of black lacquer in the muro so as to warm it. It is cold in my studio and the first application and the last part of the application on this video the black lacquer got too cold and didn’t easily come off the brush.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows rough sanding of sabi and removing some of the masking tape. I am using a #400 whetstone instead of wet-dry sandpaper. The whole removal will take 30-60 minutes so this is only a small part of that.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows applying sabi to a very narrow, masked off scar. The pieces of paper on the bottom and top of the vase are so that the masked area won’t contact any surfaces when I place the piece in the muro.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows mixing and applying thinned lacquer to a very narrow, masked off scar. I mixed good turpentine into lacquer with a palette knife and then applied it with a brush. I have the area masked so when I get to the later stages my cleanup is less and to lower the chance of scratching the surface.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This is a Bizen fired vase from about the year 1600. It has a crack which doesn’t go all the way through, the vase doesn’t leak. Instead of completing the break which is usually my first choice I am going to fill it in with sabi. First I have slightly widened the crack with a diamond file and then masked the crack with tape. Next I will apply lacquer that has been thinned with oil of turpentine so the lacquer will flow into the deepest parts of the crack.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows slowly shaping the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it was left to dry for about 4 days in a muro. There is still a lot of work both to fill out the fill to the needed thickness and outer shape. I am using #800 sandpaper and then coming back in with an Olfa blade. I have some other, sturdier blades which I will use later on.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225