This video shows slowly shaping the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it was left to dry for about 4 days in a muro. There is still a lot of work both to fill out the fill to the needed thickness and outer shape. I am using #800 sandpaper and then coming back in with an Olfa blade. I have some other, sturdier blades which I will use later on.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows building out the reconstruction on this figure. I am using sabi made with jinoko, not tonoko. Jinoko sabi is stronger overall for these types of fill, sometimes tonoko sabi will crack since it has more clay in it. It would be possible to use kokuso made with wood fibers but I don’t at this stage because although there are some deep fills most of this work is finer than kokuso allows. The body of the tsa tse figure is very low fired clay so it is important to not get sabi everywhere since it is next to impossible to get off it it hits the clay.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
These photos show the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it has been partially shaped. I still need to do fill work to bring the reconstruction out to the edges of the cardboard form.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, partially shaped Tibetan tsa-tsa figureTraditional, lacquer based kintsugi, partially shaped Tibetan tsa-tsa figureTraditional, lacquer based kintsugi, partially shaped Tibetan tsa-tsa figureTraditional, lacquer based kintsugi, partially shaped Tibetan tsa-tsa figure