This video shows adding a thickened lacquer to a couple of small holes. The lacquer is thickened with jinoko without water. It is like what is sometimes used for making raised areas in makie. The piece is very close to being finished but there were still a couple of very small holes that needed filling.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows rough sanding of sabi and removing some of the masking tape. I am using a #400 whetstone instead of wet-dry sandpaper. The whole removal will take 30-60 minutes so this is only a small part of that.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows applying sabi to a very narrow, masked off scar. The pieces of paper on the bottom and top of the vase are so that the masked area won’t contact any surfaces when I place the piece in the muro.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This is a Bizen fired vase from about the year 1600. It has a crack which doesn’t go all the way through, the vase doesn’t leak. Instead of completing the break which is usually my first choice I am going to fill it in with sabi. First I have slightly widened the crack with a diamond file and then masked the crack with tape. Next I will apply lacquer that has been thinned with oil of turpentine so the lacquer will flow into the deepest parts of the crack.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows slowly shaping the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it was left to dry for about 4 days in a muro. There is still a lot of work both to fill out the fill to the needed thickness and outer shape. I am using #800 sandpaper and then coming back in with an Olfa blade. I have some other, sturdier blades which I will use later on.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
This video shows building out the reconstruction on this figure. I am using sabi made with jinoko, not tonoko. Jinoko sabi is stronger overall for these types of fill, sometimes tonoko sabi will crack since it has more clay in it. It would be possible to use kokuso made with wood fibers but I don’t at this stage because although there are some deep fills most of this work is finer than kokuso allows. The body of the tsa tse figure is very low fired clay so it is important to not get sabi everywhere since it is next to impossible to get off it it hits the clay.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
These photos show the Tibetan tsa-tsa figure after it has been partially shaped. I still need to do fill work to bring the reconstruction out to the edges of the cardboard form.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://www.kintugi.com/?page_id=225
