This video shows step 2, first application of hardening lacquer to #4 gold to a Karatsu tea bowl. I left the bowl in a muro for about 1 week to allow the red lacquer/gold to dry. After thinning the lacquer with turpentine I apply it and then take the excess off with tissue.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
This video shows final finishing of gold on a Buddhist figure. I applied gold and left it to cure for 1 week. Now in the video I do a quick brushing to get the excess, recoverable gold off and then use air to blow away the rest off the very porous surface.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
This video shows step 1b, applying gold to a Tibetan tsa-tsa figure. I applied red lacquer and left it to cure for about 30 minutes before doing the gold application. To see step 1b see https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
This video shows masking a Tibetan tsa-tsa figure. The stone is porous with a lot of holes in the surface. The gold will adhere to the stone surface and get into the holes so it is better to mask around the target area.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
This video shows step 6, applying middle black over sabi a Tibetan tsa-tsa figure. This project I have been working on for a while. After I have a layer of lacquer the second half is to gently go over the line to thin the lacquer, dabbing the excess lacquer off the brush on my working surface before continuing thinning.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
I have been working on this stone statue for quite a while. It has mugiurushi and several layers of sabi holding it together. The stone is very soft and it is difficult to work the sabi without further damaging the stone. I decided to ‘dig’ a trench in the sabi and then apply gold to that. The ‘trench’ is slowly becoming visible, I figure several more hours and it will be ready for some middle black.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
This is a work in progress, a buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period. It is very damaged all over and is fragile so I hope I can repair it. The inlay in some areas is also damaged. The sabi I applied quite a while ago and is fully cured.
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon periodTraditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon periodTraditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period