Category Archives: Methods/techniques

Methods and techniques of kintsugi

Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, step between 5 and 6, sanding sabi

The video shows step between 5 and 6, sanding sabi. This piece is still far from being finished. The surface is very rough and so is difficult to get a good finish.

The steps refer to this page, https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=80
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com

Fine powdered gold and silver, keshifun Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi materials

There are many types of metal that are used in kintsugi. This post will talk about the most common grind used which is a fine powder and is called keshifun in Japanese.
This is what is mostly seen in pieces that are done using kintsugi techniques. Keshifun doesn’t need to be polished but it will take a burnishing if you want to. It is more durable if it is polished but that also makes it shinier. I prefer it matte so I usually don’t polish it. It also doesn’t need an overcoat of lacquer. If you apply one it will dampen the shine somewhat. Keshifun is a flat grind. The particles are flat, not round.
There are several types of flat grind gold and silver. Hirame is rounded metal flattened out into a round shape, it comes in grades of #1 to #13 size. Also there is nashiji which is hirame thinned out in to oval, strip shapes, it comes in grades of #1 to #10.

kintsugi silver keshi 10 times magnified
silver keshi 10 times magnified, applied to a bowl
kintsugi silver keshi raw
silver keshi out of the package
kintsugi silver keshi
silver keshi applied to a bowl.
kintsugi gold keshi 10 times magnified
gold keshi 10 times magnified
kintsugi gold keshi
gold keshi applied to a plate

Black lacquer Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi materials

Black lacquer is used over both sabi, (jinoko or tonoko/lacquer mix) and mugiurushi, (flour/lacquer mix) as a layer to give you a smooth finish. Without a middle layer of lacquer it is very difficult to get a smooth enough finish to successfully apply a top layer of lacquer and then metal. Applying a layer of black also hardens up the sabi which is a much nicer surface to sand and shape compared to an uncoated, ‘naked’ layer of sabi. Sabi has a rough surface until it is coated. It is made from jinoko which is a non-plastic type clay so there will always be some grit till it is coated. If you use tonoko to make your sabi it will still have some grit although less than jinoko. There are many types oflacquer, top, middle, and what I call bottom. Middle is not as hard as top lacquer. The lacquer I link to above is a top layer which is a better quality than a middle black.

Kintsugi black
Kintsugi black