Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, step 2, first application of hardening lacquer to #4 gold to a Karatsu tea bowl

This video shows step 2, first application of hardening lacquer  to #4 gold to a Karatsu tea bowl. I left the bowl in a muro for about 1 week to allow the red lacquer/gold to dry.  After thinning the lacquer with turpentine I apply it and then take the excess off with tissue.

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Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, gold on Buddhist figure

This video shows final finishing of gold on  a Buddhist figure. I applied gold and left it to cure for 1 week. Now in the video I do a quick brushing to get the excess, recoverable gold off and then use air to blow away the rest off the very porous surface.

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Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, step 1b, applying gold on Tibetan tsa-tsa figure

This video shows step 1b, applying gold to  a Tibetan tsa-tsa figure. I applied red lacquer and left it to cure for about 30 minutes before doing the gold application.  To see step 1b see https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225

For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225

 

Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, masking for gold on Tibetan tsa-tsa figure,

This video shows masking  a Tibetan tsa-tsa figure. The stone is porous with a lot of holes in the surface.  The gold  will adhere to the stone surface  and get into the holes so it is better to mask around the target area.

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Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, middle black on Tibetan tsa-tsa figure, step 6

This video shows step 6,  applying middle black over sabi a Tibetan tsa-tsa figure. This project I have been working on for a while. After I have a layer of lacquer the second half is to gently go over the line to thin the lacquer, dabbing the excess lacquer off the brush on my working surface before continuing thinning.

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Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, shaping Buddhist figure

I have been working on this stone statue for quite a while. It has mugiurushi and several layers of sabi holding it together. The stone is very soft and it is difficult to work the sabi without further damaging the stone.  I decided to ‘dig’ a trench in the sabi and then apply gold to that. The ‘trench’ is slowly becoming visible, I figure several more hours and it will be ready for some middle black.

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Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period

This is a work in progress, a buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period. It is very damaged all over and is  fragile so I hope I can repair it. The inlay in some areas is also damaged. The sabi I applied quite a while ago and is fully cured.

For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225

 

Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, buncheong stem cup from the Joseon period

Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, Momoyama period vase kintsugi, application of gold

These are finished photos after waiting a week for the red lacquer to cure and getting the excess gold off.

For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com or https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225

 

Momoyama period jar with kintsugi
Momoyama period jar with kintsugi
Momoyama period jar with kintsugi
Momoyama period jar with kintsugi
Momoyama period jar with kintsugi
Momoyama period jar with kintsugi

Knowledge base for real lacquer kintsugi.