This is a live stream kingsugi done on Facebook which I have uploaded here. I start with doing the initial hardening of #10 silver and then some initial clean up of a fit together piece. The last 5 minutes or so is putting a piece back together with glass lacquer.
All posts by David Pike
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, step 5, ishiko and 3 compounds
This video shows step 5, polishing rounded gold with ishiko and 3 compounds. Take notice of a small area where the binding red lacquer breaks through.
Step 5 refers to this page, https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, applying #10 silver to lacquer
This video shows step 1, applying #10 rounded silver to a lacquered. Meiji era plate. I am preparing these pieces as practice pieces for workshop participants. I had audio in the video but it was so bad I dropped it out.
Step 5 refers to this page, https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, Step 5a, cleaning, shaping, filling on blue bowl
This video shows Step 5a, cleaning, shaping, and filling on blue bowl. The page I link below doesn’t show a step 5a but these are the steps before going to middle lacquer. See https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=80
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, Step 5a again, cleaning, shaping, filling on blue bowl
This video shows Step 5a again, cleaning, shaping, and filling on blue bowl. I have repeated this process a number of times and am almost finished. After this stage is done it is very close to being ready for gold application. See https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=80
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com
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Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, Facebook live stream video
I will do the next Kintsugi Facebook live on Monday, August 19th. 3:00 PM Japan time
Paris time = 8:00 AM, Monday, August 19th..
Los Angeles time = 11:00 PM, Sunday, August 18th.
Thank you to everyone who joined the last one. I am able to answer questions through audio if you type them into the chat box.
I will answer questions and work on what ever piece I have on my work table.
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, Step 3 first jozuri,
This video shows Step 2, the first application of jozuri, a high quality, Japanese made hardening lacquer, over #3 gold. see https://zac.wnz.mybluehost.me/website_a640e8d6/?page_id=225
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com
Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, building a holder for repair.
I am repairing this French footed faience bowl with a very difficult break, right around the place where the curve up from the flat part of the plate starts. I made a base of cardboard with wooden supports and then a plastic ring, cut down from a piece of plastic the same diameter, to support the pieces as I put them in. The footed bowl fits into the cardboard base which is what some of the photos show.












Traditional, lacquer based kintsugi, Step 3, second jozuri application
This video shows Step 3, the second application of jozuri, a high quality, Japanese made hardening lacquer, over #3 gold. This is part of the hardening and setting of rounded gold for polishing. see httpwww.kintugi.compage_id=225
For more on traditional, lacquer based kintsugi see kintugi.com
Kintsugi FAQ When to use flour, rice, sawdust, tonoko, jinoko
Question.
I am completely confused on what material to use when. I see you have the choice of wheat flour, rice flour, saw dust, tonoko, jinoko. When do you use them? Also, do you have to first apply any ‘primer lacquer to the surface of the broken ceramic before putting them back together.
Answer.
I don’t apply lacquer to the broken face before applying mugiurushi although you can. If you do you should only do it on high fire bodies as middle to low fire bodies may absorb and wick the lacquer and stain your break line.
Regarding the different materials, flour, rice, etc.
I use them with the following in mind.
Wheat flour.
I use it mainly to mix with water then basic lacquer to make a mixture called mugi-urushi, mugi = flour, urushi = lacquer in Japanese. I use mugiurushi to stick things back together, it is like a ‘glue’. It has strong tensile strength, poor compressive strength. It has strong adhesion, poor workability. That is, it doesn’t stay where you put it, it tends to bounce back out after you remove your palette knife. Because of that it makes a poor choice for filling chips and secondary filling, i.e., mismatches in the body after the initial fitting of a piece back together. It also doesn’t sand well so it isn’t good for filling chips. Its tensile strength seems to make it a good candidate for filling in restoration areas but it is so unworkable that not only won’t it stay where you put it it doesn’t sand well making it a bigger problem for doing finishing steps.
Mugiurushi also serves as a basis for mokuso which is mugiurushi plus sawdust.
Rice, flour or in a cooked state.
Rice and basic lacquer have both high tensile and compressive strength. That makes them good for sticking things back together and subsequent shaping. The best is cooked mochi rice but it takes a long time to make so I usually use rice flour. I rarely use rice because the texture after it is dry isn’t easy for me to shape. It can often chip and crumple at the edges which makes it less desirable.
Tonoko and Jinoko.
I use jinoko for filling chips. It is mixed with water and basic lacquer. It is very cooperative in the sense it stays where you put it and sands and shapes very easily. It has good compressive strength but not high tensile strength so it isn’t good for sticking pieces back together.
Tonoko is usually used for filling chips with Jinoko added when you need extra strength. Tonoko is a finer mesh material which also allows it to be used as a polishing agent for rounded metal.
Sawdust.
Sawdust added to mugiurushi is a very strong and high body mixture called mokusou. It is very fibrous so has a lot of filling power and generally won’t crack as it dries unless it is mixed with too much lacquer. That is, it is a good filling agent when you need to fill a chip or do a restoration.